Dakota Roads

I’ve been on the road a lot lately, trying to cram in some North Dakota sights while the weather’s cooperative. You’ll see the fruits of that in upcoming posts as time allows. Of course I try to keep things on this blog related to Bismarck-Mandan, but I also want to share with you an epiphany I had in the process of this project.

I was one of those guys who couldn’t wait to graduate high school early and get the heck OUT of this area for college. It wasn’t until after I’d been away for college, back again, off to my original home of Montana, then back again, that I started to realize how great a state we have. It may have something to do with a newfound love of history, or perhaps just with growing up…I don’t know. In any case, I have developed a love not only of our fair cities, but our state as well.

There are a lot of stories and sights in North Dakota that deserve more exposure. The number of books by local authors and the size of our now-expanding Heritage Center should give good testament to that. Well, it’s about time this particular photographer / author got out to see them! I love our state’s unique features, people, and wildlife enough to share them with you. I hope you enjoy them along with the local content I provide.

Now if I could just find a way to bolt it to my motorcycle

I wonder if they make a Suzuki or Kawasaki interface kit? This engine is on display at the Fargo Air Museum, which I visited after a freelance job recently. I believe this particular engine may have come from an F-4, but that’s just a guess. When I went to NDSU they flew F-4s in Fargo, and I was able to get some extremely fun time on/in one. I haven’t been any closer to an F-16 than your average airshow patron, however.

There are lots of other engines, planes, and memorabilia to explore at this museum, including a library of aviation books and periodicals. There are plenty of aviation geeks on hand, too. I use the term “geek” in a good sense…there are motorcycle geeks, photography or video geeks, and many other kinds of geeks. We can spot each other a mile away. Geeks tend to know as much about their field of interest as an avid sports fan, and can rattle off airplane facts as if they were quarterback stats.

I’ve wanted to visit this museum forever and never took the opportunity. So, when the TV station I was working for got me a hotel room for an extra night, we ran around Fargo and played for an extra day. Yes, I took my wife with so she could hang out with other TV wives while we were broadcasting college football. That made the weekend into a paid vacation of sorts!

Don’t blink! Hensler

Some say it’s north of Mandan. Others say it’s west of Washburn. Yet others don’t know what in the world I’m talking about. The little community of Hensler isn’t offended; rather, they have quite a sense of humor about it. This sign sits along highway 200 between Washburn and Center.

I like when small towns show a sense of humor. I’ve never been interested in “the world’s largest fiberglass wombat” or other such gimmicks. That’s why you’ll never see a photo of Salem Sue or *shudder* the Enchanted Highway here. Some small towns like Hensler have a different way of grabbing attention, and it’s that ingenuity that I salute this morning.

By the way…I’ve been posting a lot of photos from towns other than Bismarck or Mandan lately. Why do you suppose that is? Well, as summer winds down once again, it’s important to get out and look around our fair state before the winter causes us to settle in for a while. You can get up on a Saturday morning and venture out, see lots of neat sites and have a decent meal, and yet be home by early evening. That’s important to do; anyone who doesn’t appreciate North Dakota has never tried it. You’d be surprised how much there is to enjoy even within just an hour or two of our beloved cities.

For sale: one low-mileage cow, rear wheel drive, $500

“Interesting trades considered?” No, I didn’t see that on the sign…it’s just that I’m a Seinfeld fan, and have to put that in there. This interesting item was parked along the highway and merited a second look. I’m not sure if it’s a two-seater or what kind of mileage it gets. If you have any questions, contact me and I’ll give you the phone number.

Prairie Pothole sunset

One thing the recent rains have been good for is the Prairie Pothole region in central and east-central North Dakota. The little lakes looked somewhat replenished after the recent series of rains that have swept through the area. That’ll be a relief as migratory bird season approaches!

One such lake was a perfect reflector for a particularly nice sunset last night. I believe this lake was in Stutsman County, but might have actually been in Kidder County. I was pretty tired after a long day by the time we saw this photo op.

Due to the fact that we took this photo from I-94, there were some power lines that had to be removed. Just thought I’d be up front about that. I didn’t have any waders to get on the other side of them!

So much for the dam tour

Chalk it up to Homeland Security, I suppose. If you go up to the Garrison Dam and try to get the dam tour (isn’t that ALWAYS funny?) you’ll see these gates staring you in the face. Accessibility is no longer a key feature in the dam.

As you can see from the sign above, you must buzz in between certain hours only. Then someone will come out to meet you and give you the “lobby tour.” That means you can look through a pane of glass at the big GE turbines in the generating station, and the old control room that isn’t used any more…just in case you have never seen obsolete power plant technology. There’s a video and other stuff illustrating the history of the dam project, and that’s about it. Thank you for stopping by.

In days when we didn’t worry about terrorists wanting to blow up items of interest such as giant hydroelectric dams, one could actually walk on the floor of the turbine room. There would also be tours of the intake station. Heck, I even finished up my SCUBA diving certification on the rocks just southeast of the intake tower. Not close enough to be sucked in, obviously. But now these are all off-limits areas, as you can see by the menacing chain link fence.

By the way…does anyone think a chain link fence is going to deter Habib in his van full of explosives? No…these are “feel good” moves. Very little has been done in the way of real security since September 2001. The reason for that is our free society. Freedom always means vulnerability. That’s why it’s up to us to remain vigilant and proactive. How would you like to live in Israel, where bus or cafe bombings are frequent? It’s up to us whether we want to accept that kind of thing, because there are plenty of people who would like to make it happen over here. And perhaps that’s another reason for those chain link fences and restricted areas: to tell people like that “we’re on the lookout for you.”

Rode the Suzuki to the bay, but the bay was dry.

I no longer fish and I don’t own a boat, but even I know of a nice little place south of Bismarck that used to be really good for both: Beaver Bay, where Beaver Creek meets the once-mighty Missouri. A few days ago I had an opportunity to blast down there on the motorcycle, so I paid the place a visit to see if things are still as bad as I feared. They are. That grassy area across the road from the sign? That should be water.

This used to be shore line, as you can see. It is reinforced with rocks, but now all those rocks do is bake in the sun. I had no problem finding a camping spot in which to stop and drink the water I’d brought. This is a great campground and recreation area…it’s too bad there’s no water to draw people here. I did see a couple of campers, but for the most part this place was a ghost town.

You can’t even SEE any real water from the boat dock; just a little flow of creek that’s cut its way through to the river along a winding path. I can’t imagine when the last time a boat was even loaded or unloaded on this dock; the Army Corps of Engineers has mismanaged the upper Missouri system for so long, it would be hard to guess.

Being a man of appetite, I was especially distraught that Bosch’s Bayside had closed. This was my favorite place to stop in for a bacon double cheeseburger…and it’s closed. I believe it closed around this time last year, but I can’t be sure. Who knows what could happen if the lake ever comes back…but for now, there’s just no way a place like this can survive. It’s sad. Maybe if they were pushing barges across the river, the Corps would listen to them…but I doubt it.

The natural way to follow up all this investigatin’ was to jet over to Linton and grab a pizza at the Hot Spot pizza place. This is a typical small-town restaurant: video games unplugged, Bismarck radio playing, locals hanging out or passing through for ice cream. I talked to one older fella briefly about how warm it is in a full leather suit on a sunny day, then had a little homemade pizza and cranked up the iPod.

This drive is one of my all time favorites…I just wish there was a happier story to tell at the end of the road. Lake Oahe and the are to the north of it are hurting badly…so badly, in fact, that the Corps is actually responding in trying to bring the water levels up. That means, of course, that they’re letting water out of Lake Sakakawea. While we may see that as a bad sign, maybe it’s a sign that they’re finally taking notice of the dire situation in the lakes of the upper Missouri system. Can we be a little optimistic about that?

Dakota back roads

No, I’m not stepping on Tony Dean’s toes with that headline. I use TWO words to say “back roads.”  This weekend I was able to partake of one of my favorite activities: touring North Dakota on one of my motorcycles. There are few things so relaxing and entertaining and just getting out and exploring our state!

This weekend’s travels took me to Linton, and I’m sure I can get a ton of blog material out of this trip. ‘Twas along this route that I found the “artifact” I mentioned in an earlier post. I also got to enjoy a lot of pleasant scenery, as you can tell.

This is a nice time of year to get out and travel; despite the drought, the recent rains have greened things up a bit. The oppressive heat is (hopefully) behind us. The fall colors will start to creep in soon as well, and it’s a chance to have one last hurrah before winter approaches. Actually, starting now will likely guarantee several weekends of fun without a huge budget of time or gas money.

We’ve gone transatlantic

Well, not really…just across a few states and a bunch of desert. But it was the only music reference that came to mind (Curious Yello, Luke Graner’s former band), and I wanted to make one today!

This week in Vegas was my first time on an airplane in 20 years. My last time was in 1986, and I’ve successfully avoided it ever since. Typically my reason is that I’m hauling motorcycles and gear with me, and those don’t fit in an overhead compartment. But I’ll admit the thought of getting on an airplane didn’t exactly thrill me. Lots of guys who race motorcycles don’t like to fly. The current AMA Superbike points leader doesn’t fly if he can help it, but last year’s champ just got his own plane and pilot’s license. Go figure.

It was interesting…I was nervous and curious at the same time. Thankfully I had the luxury of an exit seat on the wing, so I could see what the airplane was doing. As we accelerated down the runway and lifted off, I had to laugh and exclaim, “I’ve gone plenty faster than this!” I looked it up, and sure…and MD-82 series lifts off at about 140mph. At that speed, I can still get the front wheel up, and I’ve got two more gears! Once we’re in the air, though, that’s another matter.

My only regret is that I wasn’t able to circle Bismarck-Mandan for a while. That would have been so cool, but our route actually didn’t afford us a view of the cities. Once we lift off, we bank left and head south, so there’s no way to look down at Bismarck or Mandan. Coming in was a little better; I was able to get pictures of the Memorial Bridge. But I couldn’t get anything on the left side of the aircraft, i.e. Bismarck. I saw my parents’ house south of Mandan, but only briefly.

While trying to calm myself on the flight down to Nevada, I thought of how I’d spend an evening wrenching on one of my motorcycles, then get up in the morning and wring its neck at triple-digit speeds all day on the track. I never had a bolt come loose there, and I don’t even have a checklist like aircraft mechanics do! I also remembered what it’s like to dive into Turn 1 at Brainerd on the first lap: the wind is so bad from 60+ bikes hitting top speed down the straight and into the corner that riders are buffeted back and forth like rag dolls, clinging tenaciously to the handlebars. Air is NOT smooth. Turbulence is normal. So is creaking. And if the wings didn’t flop up and down like that, they’d snap off. Physics is a wonderful thing. Gradually nervousness dissolved into curiosity; I was planning on sleeping all the way down, but instead I rarely even blinked.

On the flight back I sat next to a very nice Christian lady, I’d guess in her 50s, whose dad was an airline pilot. She’d obviously spent a lot of time aboard jets. She also had a portable GPS with her, so we had a grand time watching the boundaries go by and that sort of thing. She also was starting a new Clive Cussler novel, so we talked about different authors and stuff. I told her all the favorable things I’ve heard about Ted Bell and Vince Flynn, since she likes intrigue. Someday I plan to dive into their novels too.

Then we touched down, and here I am. I took the big bike out today on a blast to Beaver Bay, only to find out that Bosch’s Bayside, the restaurant I enjoy for a double bacon cheeseburger, has closed since the water’s gone. What a disappointment. So I turned back around, blazed home. From a seat-of-the-pants impression I was accelerating faster than the MD-82, but I don’t have any way to compare other than that.

It sure is good to be back in Bismarck! Did I miss anything while I was gone?

My first view of the outside world in four days

This is the view from the window of my suite here in sunny (I presume) Las Vegas. I’ve been working here all week and have been so busy that I have yet to look outside… obviously I haven’t left the building. But it’s a big building: the place I’m staying has a casino, a hotel, an equestrian facility, a bowling alley as big as anything we have in Bismarck, a 9-screen movie theatre, seven restaurants…the list goes on.

It was nice to come down here…it was 112 in Bismarck, but only 104 here! And it’s a dry heat, too. It’s a cake walk. The first guy I met when I walked out the airport was a Christian, too.

So far I’ve had the opportunity to work 14-16 hrs each day, do a lot of camera and tripod lifting, shoot video and stills. I got to work with a nice lady from the FBI and get some nice FBI swag (souvenirs for you old folks). I also worked a little bit with a guy who used to be on the crew for Sesame Street before coming to Nevada. My friend is the general manager of the FOX television affiliate here in Vegas, and we’re gonna go out for dinner shortly. Then I guess I’ll see the sights.

I have a lot of observations and may do a word dump later, but for now it’s time for a nap. I’ve had roughly 3-4 hours of sleep each night between the time I shut off the cameras and go back to my room and the time I stagger downstairs for a Red Bull and two dollar breakfast. The food here’s cheap, they try to keep a guy happy so he gambles I suppose. Anyway, time for a brief combat nap before dinner. Drive safely.